The Road
 Stefan Merchant

If you want to build the best road in the world you probably shouldn’t use Paraguayan prisoners of war. The road from La Cumbre (near La Paz, Bolivia) to Yolosa (near Coroico) has been dubbed, "The world's most dangerous road" by the World Bank. The road connects the high plains of Bolivia with the lowland jungle. The initial elevation is an oxygen depriving 4700 m and the road goes all the way down to 1100 m.


At the top.

This makes for one long and spectacular downhill. The entire road is along a cliff face so there is never a moment’s rest and the potential for death is omnipresent, especially for bus passengers. The road is not wide enough for two vehicles to pass so when two vehicles meet the uphill vehicle has the right of way. The vehicle going downhill then has to back up until it reaches a pullout. This is what makes the road so dangerous. Most deaths (they average one a day) occur while a large vehicle such as a dump truck or bus is trying back up. Sometimes the driver steers poorly and the vehicle goes plunging over the cliff and other times the wheels lose traction and the vehicle slides sideways off the cliff. In either event, the result is grisly.
What is your biggest drop?

The safest way down the road is definitely by bicycle. I had heard about this trip from fellow South American travelers and was told that Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking (www.gravitybolivia.com) was the company to go with. Although more expensive than their competitors, they offer decent bikes, English speaking guides with first aid and full van support. I plunked down my US$49 for the one-day trip, gave them my T-shirt size and showed up the following morning.

The Ride
We started with breakfast at a La Paz café and then loaded the bus. The roof of the bus was stacked with Konas. It was a confidence inspiring sight for a Shore rider. When we got to La Cumbre, the ground was covered in snow, a reminder of the dizzying 4700m altitude. Each bike was chosen in advance by the company to match the rider's size, and the staff set them up for you before you begin. They even give you the choice of standard or motorcycle brakes.


Our Canadian hero - Stefan.

Most of the bikes were Kona Stuffs with Marzocchi Z-5s and mechanical disc brakes. The typical rental bike in South America makes a Canadian Tire bike look like an Intense M-1, so it was definitely great to have a decent bike to ride. Helmets, gloves and vests were provided, a safety lecture was given and away we went.

The first 20 km is paved. My bike was equipped with two rings and a bashguard, so I couldn’t keep up with the lucky three-ring people. Instead I had to content myself with the breathtaking mountain scenery, waterfalls and Inca fences in the valley below. Our first stop was a cocaine checkpoint. One of the guides, Marianne, assured us that the police were only looking for large scale quantities of chemicals used in the cocaine making process and not for personal stashes. There is a large sign listing prohibited chemicals so if you go on the ride you might want to leave the hydrochloric acid and kerosene at home. After the cocaine checkpoint (and lunch) we were met with a 20-minute uphill. The grade was mild and it was paved but at altitude any effort seems superhuman. I managed to keep my lungs intact and made it to the beginning of the unpaved portion of the road.

The road itself is not a technical ride. It is gravel road used by trucks, cars, buses, bicycles and dogs. If you can ride down a gravel lane you can ride this road. The danger is really only for large vehicles. Only one cyclist has perished by going over the edge. The biggest challenge is psychological; protocol dictates that you ride on the left, which is the side closest to the drop. Many times you can peer over the edge and see a 200m drop. It definitely puts a lump in your stomach. The top part of the road is very windy and lets you practice railing turns. The middle part gets bumpier but there are some very beautiful waterfalls that fall onto the road, soaking you in the process. As you go down you notice the vegetation change from scrub sub-alpine shrubs and grasses to lush jungle, banana trees and coca fields. The last part of the road is wider and bumpier and is perfect for letting it hang out. (Coincidentally, this is where most of the injuries occur)

After the ride there is a well deserved dinner in Yolosa (for CDN$1.25!) and you can take a bus to Coroico or return with Gravity to La Paz. The bus ride back up the road is 10 times scarier than the bike ride down it. I was advised to sit on the right hand side of the bus for full effect. Alberto, our driver, was a former Bolivian rally driver and can make it up the road 30 minutes faster than the other drivers. There are countless times where you cannot see the road out the window and it feels like the bus is hanging over the cliff. In truth, Alberto is an excellent driver, but not everyone on the road is. We had several close calls with other drivers coming down too fast. Going up in the bus is a much bigger rush than going down on the bike.


The world's most dangerous road.

The Skinny
This is a road, not a technical ride. If you go, go for the scenery and the experience. Don't go expecting to bust your biggest air. The constant safety talks and tips on how to ride a bike can get tiresome but remember this trip is taken by all sorts of people. There are some true beginners out there who need this information. Suffer it with dignity. You can make the ride more fun by going faster, but ride within your limits. Falling off the road or meeting a Volvo F-12 tractor around a hairpin will definitely put an end to your fun. The world’s most dangerous road is a unique mountain biking opportunity, next time you are in Bolivia check it out.


Triple black diamond.

Stefan Merchant is currently travelling in South America.
His buddies up here on the Shore have missed him and his 2 broken arms since he's been gone.