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05/14/2008
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La Ruta
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Blanca y Negra
A North Shore boy takes on La Ruta De Los Conquistadores in Costa
Rica
James Wilson
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Years ago I was pushing my bike up to the top of the fabled Disneyland on
BC’s
west coast with a group of no
longer famous freeriders. At the top of the last push one of the riders exclaimed, “Ha
ha ha and we don’t have to
pay for this, it’s a free ride!” No categories, no start gun, no
losers. And to reinforce the point we spent the next 3-
4 hours descending (hiking and descending to be truthful). How was I to know
that this was the flash point for the
FREERIDE movement – the counter culture to organized racing and the new
home for countless mountain bikers
who “don’t have to pay.”
Time has passed – a lot of time - and I find myself in my 40’s
facing a new challenge. How can I call myself a rider
in the current world of back flips and barrel rolls? How can I satisfy my delicate
ego in this super agro realm?
Racing that used to satisfy has been replaced with freeriding. You know - the
world of no start guns, no losers
and, of course, now Crankworx.
Lycra , alive and well in Central America. Can you spot Tinker? || Photo: Luis Castro
Funny thing about humans is that we are predictable. When everyone laughed
at the joke about racing years ago
I wondered, “Where will this go?” It has gone to its natural and
predictable extreme. Jumping, wheelie drops and
hucks have led to back flips and barrel rolls which have lead us right back
to competition. Events such as
Crankworx now mark our calendars. But for me the question is, “Where
is an aging mountain biker to go to satisfy
the need for the extreme but not break his neck?”
The Conquest
Bring on epic mountain biking and the most difficult mountain bike race on
the planet
- La Ruta de los Conquistadors. Check out the stats: race across Costa Rica
in 4
days, over 350km, 9 climatic zones ranging from the Pacific Ocean to the Caribbean,
and the most important number of all - 40,000 vertical feet of climbing! Wait
a minute,
even the most hardcore racer cringes at the thought of climbing that much.
But on the
other hand what goes up 40,000’ must come down 40,000’. And in
the world of riding
what could be better than 40,000’ worth of downhill?
Commitment these days is so easy – press Enter on a keyboard and ‘click’ you’re
in. To boost my commitment I
started to tell everyone I knew about the coming event. As the story unfolded
I found that there were many other
loons that had also ‘pressed Enter’. I had a training and travel
partner in Dean Payne (BC Bike race founder and
former hucker). Matt Young (Innovative Fitness pres. and recent record setter
for a ride across Canada), Dan
Swanson, Paul Granger, Sandy Mitchell, Tony Routley and lots of other BC guys
who I could have sworn had
traded in their lycra for baggies also made the commitment. Dean and I chose
our weapons in the form of 2008
Trek Fuel Ex’s. His Ex 9 was dubbed ‘Blanca’ and was a pearly
white rig with 120mm of travel in the rear and
140mm in the front. My 9.5 was named ‘Negra’ and is the carbon
fiber version. I got a bit Obsessed with it and
had it set up with as much XTR as I could find.
The event is almost impossible to outline. I have always said that the only
place to watch a bike race from is from
the saddle of your own bike but I will try. The starting corral is set up in
front The Best Western hotel in Haco,
Costa Rica on the Pacific Ocean. The surf is crashing on the beach. It is humid
and promises to get hot. It is 4:45
am. There are 500 of your soon to be best friends crammed in beside you. A
crazy display of fireworks blows off
not 15 feet from the corral. Latin pop music is blaring. Unintelligible words
are blaring over the PA as the gun goes
off.

In an event like this you get to know the 25 riders near you - this guy was seemingly impossible to drop. || Photo: Luis Castro
We roll out of the grid and within 500m are pedaling at a
leisurely 40kph. The road quickly degrades from asphalt to
gravel then to thinner road and finally to a 4x4 track up the
costal mountains. I look up and realize this steep grade and I
are going to be real intimate for the next 4 days. Through the
pounding in my brain and the screaming in my legs I can hear
the noises of the jungle. It is the screams of Macaws, monkeys
and other jungle creatures. They are laughing at us. Perhaps
the jaguars are in there wondering who is going to be
breakfast.
The jungle experience becomes a mud wrestling match for the riders. As I slip
and fall through some of the
stickiest, slickest mud a question creeps into my head: Is this a joke?! Who
dreamt this up? Rivers get crossed –
countless creeks and rivers. The hours fade away and I realize that the jungle
is gone and now I am pedaling
through some sort of dry forest. More steep climbs and more fast descents.
The downhills are loaded with blind
corners and sheer cliff drop offs, the traction - not so good. 8 hours of this
and like some sort of miracle it ends. I
can see the flags of the finish line.
The blaring music returns and people are cheering. I punch the air as I cross
the line. The feeling? Best thing in
the world! 14,000 vertical feet and 100-plus km. I finish washing my bike and
settle in for the BBQ. A sickening
feeling starts to descend upon me. It’s not the hardening of my legs.
It’s not the complaints of my back – oh no it’s
worse than that. It’s the realization that there are 3 more days of this.
Eat, sleep, rest (repeat) (repeat).
The question begs: In the face of the freeride revolution – all for free
- how can events like this be so popular?
Cape Epic sells out at 2000 and turns away another 4000. BC Bike Race will
enlist 400 this year and is projected
to one day hit 800. TransRockies, TransAlps, and so on. It was only a few years
ago that the freeride revolution
pronounced that XC was dead. Oh sure the lycra crowd still hangs in Colorado,
Idaho or Ontario but in the gnarly
Northwest – home of freeride - nada, el muerte. Lycra? That stuff is
on the endangered list.
I am glad the photographer got this one - I certainly did not. || Photo: Luis Castro
Day 2
Day 2 begins in a way that will soon become familiar. 3:30am wake up call.
4:00am Breakfast. 4:30am pack up.
5:00am bus. 6:00am start. What was I thinking? My life is a good life; happy
kids, happy wife. We all get up at
7:00am. The kids play, eat breakfast, go to school. I head into work at 9:30am
or so. This event, that I willfully
pressed ’enter’ for, is like the army! I throw my stiff legs over
my saddle, sit down – ouch! My butt should not feel
like that! I break out the diaper crème. My super-stiff legs, aching
back and subconscious are just reeling - What
am I doing? As I question this the gun goes off.
All weakness vanishes and the race begins. We are off. Today is reported to
be easier than yesterday. Today
only 12,000’ vertical, 70 k’s and close to 50% asphalt. The promise
of easier is a joke. Costa Ricans have a skill
like no other. It’s neither art, like the French, nor sculpting, like
the Italians. No, it’s laying asphalt up impossibly
steep grades. 30 less km than yesterday translates into steeper terrain…a
lot steeper.
As I ride along and pedaling becomes
automatic I start to realize that this is more
than a race. I begin to lose myself to the ride.
My thoughts are not really related to pedaling.
Thoughts of my family float around: my boys -
their future, what they do, how they think, what
they think of me; my wife - her sacrifices to
raise awesome kids, what she gave up so that
I can pedal around Costa Rica.
Some parts of the country are not as pretty as others. || Photo: Luis Castro
I snap to it as the race course takes a devilish
turn for the worst. The organizers have added
some hell: a short climb up a steep gravel trail,
then clay agony. We push our bikes through
knee-deep mud; up to our hips in water. This
leads to a 150 foot wall of mud. Slipping
backwards and losing all gains I ask, “Whose
idea is this?” While cursing local organizers
and really anyone with a Costa Rican passport, I notice a hand extended down
to me. It’s a volunteer offering to
help me get over the crux. The generosity forces me to drop my anger.
After sliding down a waterslide of clay and rock we pop out of hell to a gravel
road that leads to - of all things - a
sprint finish! The music, the people, the rush and oh ya that feeling, that
sickening one…“Two more days of this!” I
wonder what tomorrow will bring. Eat, sleep, ride (repeat).
Day 3
Unreal – getting out of bed is a problem. Dysentery is now a real possibility.
In fact many riders are down for the count. The gun goes off, another rolling
start with some 400-plus riders weaving through San Jose towards volcano Arazu.
Yup, today we get to climb a volcano. Any thoughts of failure fade with the rush
of riders heading up the slopes of this mega mountain. Pedal strokes are automatic.
The promise of a wicked 20k descent on the other side drives us on. We reach
the high point and are greeted by a throng of fans. I point the bike downhill
and
experience about 3 minutes of descending before we traverse for about half an
hour. Where is the downhill? Again I curse the organizers.
.
Xerox had a good sized team. Everytime I would see a Xerox rider I would think " Hold on I just passed you!" After a day or two I fiqured it out. || Photo: Luis Castro
Finally the descent begins for real. North Vancouver riding
skills now become relevant. Andreas Hestler (Natl. team
member and Olympian) has said that you will not make up
time in the downhill. “Yes,” I said to him, “maybe for you
at
the front, but back here with the plebs downhilling has
value.” Driving rain and a return to the jungle leads to
some of the sketchiest downhilling ever. I lose count of the
number of people passed as I skid down impossible lines
with impossible clay and outrageous speeds. The 20 year
old in me is alive! As I descend I have picked up a couple
racers. We are driving for the finish. Corners are getting
crazier as we blindly lean the bikes into the unknown. My
bike, I realize, is pedigree. The more I put into it the better
it goes.
A Dutch kid and I have really got a race on our hands. Any chance to add power
we do. Hauling on the bars the bike pulls into a slight wheelie as we exchange
the lead. The rain is still trying to crush us but all we are thinking of is
the finish. The road flattens a bit and the kid pulls away. That’s okay;
I’ll get him on the next steep. We carve a sharp right and onto an asphalt
road. In spite of being in the big ring, the kid pulls away. Within 2km we
take a sharp left and game on – a steep gravel descent. Without any caution
I let go of my brakes and drop into the hardest gear. The corners are coming
on at breakneck speed. Through the rain I see the kid – he has just blown
a corner and lost all of his speed. I stand up to make sure he can’t
catch me and blow by him. The next 5 corners are a blur –
left, right, left, right, really right…I see the finish line!
The downhill side was even worse!! || Photo: Luis Castro
The finish looks like a downhill ski race finish what with the fencing and
advertisements. As I cross the line I nail
my brakes and skid to a stop. How much higher can a person get?! My heart is
in my throat. I am shaking from
the adrenaline. I turn to the kid and we high-five, pound each other on the
back – that’s racing!
Ok this is just getting weird. I look around as I get organized. More people
are sick, more can’t walk, and medics
are really getting busy. It won’t stop raining. That feeling returns…that
sickening feeling. Eat, sleep, ride.
Awesome! Some more rain. || Photo: Luis Castro
Day 4
Man do I feel sick. Kind of pre-race sick. I need a cork for my butt and we
have a 120km day from the highlands to
the Caribbean below. I’m blowing chunks from my nose and all I want to
do is finish. The gun goes off and up we
go. Wait a minute! I thought we were going down to the Caribbean? Well I give
it to the organizers they are
consistent. Today we are rewarded with about 8000’ of descending. My
bike continues to take what ever I throw
at it. I am so surprised by how well it carves and today I so appreciate it
as I hold onto corners by a thread. We hit
ridiculous speeds through mountain towns and accompanying residential streets.
Medics are now very busy as
many riders just simply pop and crash on the way down. A pace line sets up
and just as we get our rhythm we
stop.
We get off our bikes and run the length of a slimy railway bridge with no guard
rails and no walkway. We are just
above sea level and this rail line and my butt are going to deal with each
other for the next 25kms. Oh I feel for
the guys and girls on hardtails. My bike just
soaks it up and I start catching people. The
chase is so motivating. On the rail bed, off
the rail bed, and back again. Riders are
getting flats, I see a bike get thrown into the
swamp beside the tracks. The rain just
keeps pounding and the racing continues.
Groups set up and pace lines evolve. The
riders are silent, words need not be spoken; we are going to finish.
The gravel and sand roads fade into asphalt
and I hook up with a couple familiar faces
and another pace line sets up. Soon I can
see crowds of people. As we near the finish
we turn off the road and wheelie our bikes
out onto the beach. As I cross the line I
become aware of the loud music and the
crashing surf. My friends Kate and Fraser are out on the beach. We give each
other stinky slimy hugs and rejoice
in the moment – I have finished what has proven to be the toughest race
of my life.
It wasn't until the bikes were packed and the chamois were tossed that I noticed just how gorgeous the place really is. || Photo: Luis Castro
I look around and spot Roman Urbina – the race founder. It was from
his twisted mind that this event has come.
He is in obviously in pain for just two days before he snapped his Tibula in
a motorcycle accident – on the race
course. He crutches over in the sand grabs, my hand, shakes it very hard and
with a crazy twinkle in his eye he
says, “Congratulations you are now a Conquistador.”
Conquistador
That says it all. All this time I was so puzzled by the question why are all
these people doing this event?
Friendship? A good challenge? What is it?
I finally got it: I am a Conquistador. Every finisher is a Conquistador. We
have conquered. Everyone who dealt
with the 20 inches of rain, flooded back roads, insane downhill, endless uphill,
thin air, clay encrusted bikes,
endless hike-a-bikes, bowel disorders, sleepless nights, diets of Powerbars
and gel, getting lost, and more hike-abikes
is a Conquistador. Everyone is a winner for they have conquered their fears
and, through this passage,
have won.
The core values of freeride have come to cross-country. The riders of La Ruta
are not rewarded for beating
someone; they are rewarded for conquering their own fears. The freerider in
me sees the two sports in the same
mental space. In the conquering of fears, the belief that I can, the quieting
of the voices that say “stop,” I realize
that I will and I am. I will do this because I am doing this. No voices, no
chatter, no disbelief. I can apply this
knowledge to all aspects of life. I can ride down a slippery, slime covered
log across an impossible ravine, huck a
drop off, jump across some gap. I can start a charity, run a successful business,
and organize events. I can be a
great father and husband - I can apply it to all aspects of life. I can take
fear by the horns and believe in myself,
believe in the moment, believe that completion is imminent and it will occur.
Sure La Ruta is a bit extreme and likely not for everyone but the experience
learned should be taken on by all.
Maybe BC Bike Race is for you, maybe TransRockies, and perhaps La Ruta? The
realization that you are
capable, able and amazing should be learned. We set the limits we chose to
live by but all is possible.
So go do it – ‘press Enter’ and have the ride of your life.
James
Sound like a fun thing to do in your spare time?
Want to take on your own epic adventure? Talk about it here.
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