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05/16/2008
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NSMB.com Gear - April 2003
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SRAM X-7 Triggers
Second time lucky?
Cam McRae
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When Michael Zellman, SRAM's PR and media manager, called me to find out if I
wanted to be among the first to try the company's new Trigger shifters I was stoked - I
have liked SRAM stuff for some time now. I appreciate the solid-state simplicity
of Grip Shift, the options they allow for brake lever placement, the micro adjust
front derailleur option and the ability to shift from your smallest to your largest
cog (or vice versa) in one twist.
There are also, however, some advantages to - what shall
we call it - non-twist shifting and some folks simply don't like to twist. SRAM
tried out triggers in 2001 (the 7.0 and 9.0 in both Shimano-compatible Gemini
and SRAM ESP models) but they didn't manage to match Shimano's benchmark thumb shifter performance. The
approach last time was to use two pushing thumb motions similar to Shimano's original
Rapidfire (before the 'plus') but this time SRAM has opted for two distinct movements.
| The Triggers and this year's Twist Shifters
(the name Grip Shift is being phased out) will be available in 1:1 cable
pull for SRAM derailleurs and a 2:1 Shimano compatible incarnation. I
am testing the X-7 mated to the amazing X•0 rear derailleur, and will
soon have SRAM's new X-9 changer, which is packed with trickle-down X•0
technology in a less expensive and exotic package
To move the chain to a larger cog or chainring you use a push that is
very similar to the action necessary to move a Shimano chain. To allow
the chain to drop into a smaller cog or chainring you also use your thumb
but this time you must bend slightly forward and then lift with your thumb.
In both instances I have found the shifting positive and trouble free.
I have only been out for a few rides but thus far I find the thumb lifting
action to be somewhat counter-intuitive. The finger pull of Rapidfire
Plus has always felt very natural to me so it may be that I have to unlearn
that motion in order to really assess the lifting motion. As you adjust
you can use your pointer to nudge the paddle upward but it is more awkward
than using your thumb. One great thing is that once you get thumb/thumb
down you always have your breaking finger (real riders only use one ;)
) ready and willing to pounce. |
Don't say 'Rapidfire' - Shifting
requires your thumb for up or down. |
One of the best features of the new Triggers is the tough, easy-to-read indicator window.
The indicator window has been a liability for Shimano on the
North Shore. You would be hard pressed to find a bike with the window intact
after a few months of riding but the window on the Triggers seems really tough
and it's very easy to read. Cable installation is a breeze with the Triggers
and adjusting and fine-tuning was straightforward as well.
I will report back on the Triggers after I get some really good
riding in on them.
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Chris King SteelSet
Duke of Burl
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Nothing touches a Chris King headset in my experience. I don't know if it's the exacting tolerances, the fact they are made in the U.S. or something
leeching into Lake Shasta (where CK is headquartered), but the NoThreadSet is so much more reliable
and long lasting than anything else that, even at CDN$200 it is a bargain.
I still have my first one and it has thus far been installed in three different
frames over seven years without complaining once.
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So why the heck would they need anything
tougher than that? The SteelSet is made of - magnesium. Just kidding
- it's steel but what really sets it apart from other units is the
cup depth. Both the top and bottom cup press a full inch into the
frame - thrice the depth of your average cups. All of a sudden the
risk of ovalizing the headtube of your $4,000 frame is reduced dramatically.
Better yet if you have already hula-hooped it you can probably save
the frame because these deep cups will press past the ovalized depth.
That's the good news. The bad news is that, because of the thin steel
walls, once a Steelset is in it probably isn't coming out. The headset
removal tool (bike store dildo) may just slip off the thin walls, meaning
you either cut it out or sell it with your frame when it's time to
move on.
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Full insertion. |
| It won't fit in just any frame either.
Some headtubes aren't milled deep enough to accommodate 1" of penetration
and others increase in diameter after a depth of about .5" (The
2003 Big Hit, for example) meaning you get none of the benefit of the
added depth. Another downside is that often some advanced frame preparations
is required. I skipped this step because, after testing the depth by
putting the cups in part way I was unable to remove them. Onward ho
was the cry and the cups were forced into my complaining frame.
Here I go again admitting things I shouldn't admit. I forked up and
as a result my headtube has developed an interesting tattoo. The spider
veins aren't growing though so I think it should be okay. Today's lesson
is: when installing a King SteelSet, take the time have the headtube
prepped to the required depth and make sure your frame can accommodate
the extra depth.
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It isn't as bad as it looks. And since I'm cutting the King out
it doesn't really matter.
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If you are the sort of rider who regularly ovalizes headtubes or if you have a
frame that has already suffered that fate, this just might be the headset
for you. Otherwise, cash in some life insurance and buy a standard King NoThreadSet -
it's one long-term commitment you'll never regret.
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Shimano XT discs
Big rotors for big descents
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When I first started investigating disc brakes,
I was pretty enamoured with the Shimano's XT discs. I like the four-piston design and
the fact that they use mineral oil instead of paint-damaging DOT brake fluid.
Unfortunately, when they were only available with 160mm (6") rotors
there wasn't enough stopping oomph to satisfy those of us here on the
North Shore. Now that the large rotors are here, there has been an XT explosion
and the response is pretty golden.
I found them slow to break-in, and after three rides I still wasn't satisfied
with the feel, modulation or power. But since that time I am really beginning
to enjoy those same elements. I did bang my lever falling off a skinny
on Bitches Brew and since that time there seems to be air in my front
line. I have re-bled and cycled the lever extensively to remove any air
but I still can't get it right. Perhaps this was just bad luck but my
experience with Hayes has been so reliable that I have to wonder if the
Shimano's are as tough.
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Now that big rotors are here Shimano is a freeride option. |
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I have always liked the shape and feel of
Shimano levers but after getting used to various after-market Hayes replacements
it took me some time to find the sweet spot with the XTs. Those days are
gone and I really appreciate the shape of the blades as well as the light
feel before the pads make contact with the rotor.
The '03 models have more conventional cable routing, which extends directly
out from the lever like Hayes or Hope, but the set I am testing is the
old style, which directs the line straight down. I think I would rather
have the new approach.
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Need some leverage? |
Every set of Hayes brakes I have owned has out-performed my expectations in every
situation. They work when they shouldn't work and in several thousand rides only
once have I lost the use of one of my brakes. I will need to really put these
through hell before I'm ready to say they equal the industry standard.
Cam McRae
Previous Gear Shots
Gear Shots #2 - Roach Rally Shorts, NYC Freeride Stem, Pryme AL Full-face Helmet
Gear Shots #1 - Yakima RimRoc, SixSixOne Wrist Wraps, Evil Bikes SRS Chainguide
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