DREAM BUILDS
David Fournier's Well Ridden Yeti SB150
Dream Builds is a new series that digs into the passion projects among our fellow riders. These bikes aren't necessarily the fanciest or newest, but their owners will have chosen each part for a reason, according to a grander vision. We'll present a new Dream build more or less every month, and yes, you'll get your chance to submit your own build to be considered for inclusion in the series. More on that later - for now, enjoy the first installment.
As mountain bikers, the gear we ride is something a dangerous amount of time is spent pondering. And time isn’t the only thing we spend too much of on our bikes – ask your partner for confirmation. But it always comes down to having what makes us comfortable and what gives us that big shit-eating grin in our free time. Sometimes it’s purely for that bling factor, and others it’s all about functionality.
For David Fournier, his build comes down to comfort. He’s not afraid to spend money where it will improve his experience and help keep the sore bones from rattling any more loose. His build consists of some surprising pieces but the most notable thing is how smooth and solid it feels to handle. While wheeling his Yeti SB150 from my car to the shoot location, the attention to detail when it comes to a quiet, planted bike was screaming, silently. There’s not a lick out of place making the dull thud from the tires over the ground the only sound, and feeling while maneuvering it. Absolute bliss.
David’s been riding since the ’90s and has his fair share of injuries from that time. What affects him most these days is a couple of beat-up wrists and an equilibrium issue from Meniere's Disease, which can at times make it impossible to ride. But reading through his setup, it becomes clear that it’s not just his battered body or struggles with Meniere's that steered the direction of his build. This Yeti SB150 may not be the most bling one on the trails – some Yeti owners love to go ape-shit on their builds – but it is put together with an interesting mix of carefully considered components. Not all of the parts are the latest and greatest but David's attention and willingness to maintain his bike places it in a class of tight that equals freshly World Cup mechanic built rigs.
A.J. – What drew you to the Yeti SB150?
David – Richie Rude. Ha. I grew up riding bikes in the '90s and that brand is somewhat mystical to me.
What were you riding before this bike and why did you change?
SB6… 'Cause newer is better, right?
Why the Push ElevenSix?
I only see its benefits. I think the Float is slightly “poppier” on jumps but falls short everywhere else for me. It lacks the composure of the 11/6, it feels like I'm riding an angry bronco and overall lacks the grip I get with the Push. The 11/6 feels like glue and it's sooo smooth over the bumps. It helps to corner the bike in a big way. The bike retains its sweet spot/geo better I think.
Your brakes are almost flat. Why? How long have you run them like this?
I tend to ride the front end a lot and it helps to keep me on the right side of the bar, haha. I don't like OTBs that much, lol.
I think it helps keep me more centred on the bike and it also feels less twitchy to me. It keeps my elbow straight and out (wider stance and stronger grip maybe?). I'm not sure what the science is on that, I'm just old and have weird habits on the bike now, haha. I've been running them like that for a good 10/15 years now... My wrists are also bad, strangely this helps with the pain I get on top of them.
We don’t see many people with Time pedals on mountain bikes. Tell us about those.
They are the best… period. They got tough to find for a while, and I tried a bunch of others, but those just have the best feel for me, and they are solid! I run them on my DH and trainer at home.
I pull out one piston at a time with this tool/block I made, clean/lube it, repeat with all four. Keeps 'em feeling fresh. I also make sure they are perfectly dialled up/centred, pretty much every 2/3 rides... – David Fournier
DH casing for the front tire and a DoubleDown rear. Why is that?
I'll switch between the two depending on what’s available but I prefer full DH casing if I can get it… I just like the added support I get from that casing. It feels like the bike tracks better and slightly smoother as well. Most of that stuff is just in my head though, hahaha. I like not having to worry about slashing a sidewall and DH casing gives me that… Although I have slashed my fair share of those in the park.
Fun fact, I've never slashed an old tire, it always seems to happen to me with brand new tires.
(I’ve) been running DHFs for what, 20 years now? I've tried so many tires over the years and I keep going back to that tire, everything else scares me… or I scare myself? Not sure, haha. I don't mind the e13 either, (it) feels really similar, a tad faster even… – David Fournier
Do you run the grips backwards on purpose? Tell me about that?
Yes, you noticed!? Those are lifesavers! I simply can't run lock-ons anymore. The Longneck's give me the extra squish my wrists need. I run my hands right on the outside of the bar, and the bulge bugs the crap out of me if I run them the right way around. I have small hands and bad wrists… like real bad wrists and I get pain otherwise.
The bike feels unreal and there’s plenty going on to cut down on feedback. Tell us about that and your trouble with hand pain.
Yeah, have I mentioned my bad wrists? Haha. The grips and bars are a result of those. That OneUp bar has also been a lifesaver to me, it really cuts down on the vibrations. Science works!
Two years, zero problems – I’m really happy with it. I bash the chainring quite often so the bash guide made sense to me. – David Fournier
Is this your only bike?
I sold my DH in the fall. I usually have two bikes but I think I'll skip a year with a DH this year…?
You ride heaps of bike park and DH. Have you found any limits with the SB150?
With the bike? No. With me? Pretty much as soon as I get out of the bed in the morning, that's my limit now, lol. Jokes aside, it's a great bike for the park but I do get tired on it pretty quickly… In terms of plow capability, I think it's just as capable as a DH bike but forces you, actually, I should say allows you to take different lines… I can ride the same stuff on this bike but it's probably a tad slower overall as my achy body tends to force me around the bigger stuff now.
(I’ve been running the STFU) since last summer. I went from a 12/47 to a 10/51 drivetrain and it was noticeably louder… I can't stand chainslap. – David Fournier
What do you enjoy most about the bike?
It loves to go over things and the faster you allow it to do its thing, the bigger the reward.
What are you most picky about on your bike?
Is picky a nicer way to say anal about stuff? Hahaha. Brakes and suspension. Those two must be dialled at all times, I cant ride my bike otherwise… and I'm not joking.
Worst thing about the bike?
The maintenance on the bearings.
What plans (if any) are there for it in the future?
Hopefully that new Öhlins 38.
David's Yeti SB150 Specs
Brand/Model | Notes | |
---|---|---|
Frame: | 2020 Yeti SB150 (Turquoise) | Size Medium. 150mm rear wheel travel. Turq layup. |
Shock: | Push ElevenSix | 400lb spring w/ one-half turn preload / HSC: 16 out / LSC: 14 out / R: 10 out and 8/10/10 for second setting (setup for fast A-Line-type trails) |
Fork: | Fox 36 Factory Grip2 29 (170mm) | 70psi w/ 1 spacer. HSC: 15 out / LSC: 12 out / LSR: 9 out / HSR: 6 out |
Brakes: | Gen. 1 TRP Quadiem | 203mm rotors front and rear (Shimano IceTech) |
Wheels: | e*thirteen LG1r carbon rims laced to DT Swiss 240 hubs | Custom built. Strong, trouble-free rims and DT hubs were found "super cheap on Starbikes" |
Tires: | Maxxis Minion DHF 29 x 2.5 front, Maxxis DHRII 29 x 2.4 rear | DH front tire and DD rear currently. 22/24psi front and 24/26psi rear, depending on where the ride is |
Drivetrain: | Shimano XTR shifter and XT 12-speed derailleur w/ 10–51T XT cassette | 32t Blackspire Snaggletooth chainring |
Cranks: | RaceFace Next R | 165mm length |
Chainguide: | OneUp Bash Guide | Turquoise |
Bar & Stem: | OneUp Carbon Handlebar and Renthal Apex35 | 40mm stem length (flipped) and 35mm rise bar cut to 770mm |
Grips: | ODI Longneck (Push-On) | Run backwards to place the bulge away from his hands |
Pedals: | Time Speciale 12 | Been on mostly Time pedals for 20 years |
Seatpost: | Oneup Components V1 Dropper w/ original composite lever | 175mm drop length “I think?" |
Saddle: | Ergon SM3 | Size M/L |
Extras: | STFU Trail chain damper, OneUp Axle-F, RideWrap (Frame) | Prefers the cleaner look of the Axle-F (vs stock QR-Thru) |
Weight: | N/A | Heavy with a hint of I don't really care? Haha. No idea, seriously – 30-something pounds |
Height: 5’10”
Weight: 155lbs
Inseam: 30 inches
Riding Style: I'm told I'm smooth and like straight lines around corners. Lol. I have bad equilibrium and over the years I've become less comfortable in the air so I like to stay low to the ground.
Bar roll: What feels right to me, no real science. It helps with my bad wrists
Comments
Znarf
3 years, 3 months ago
Nice attention to detail! Nice pictures and nice article!
One insight from a fellow rider with bad wrists to another: I was fed up with my 36 170mm 29“ fork developing creaky CSUs and upgraded to a (Fox) 38. While it worked incredibly well and was very smooth in itˋs travel, it also hurt my wrists really bad, because the increased stiffness brought a lot of side to side bar movements and other vibration into my wrists. I ended up selling the fork and went to a Lyrik Ultimate, which is smoother all around for my body. Same story for a (no bad wrists and a much better rider than me) buddy who went from a Lyrik to a ZEB and then back to a Lyrik after half a season. His wrists started to hurt on wet rough trails and in the cold.
Before you drop the coin on a stiffer fork, maybe test-ride. Most reviews donˋt mention the increased stiffness as less comfortable. For me they meant the difference between being able to ride or NOT ride.
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AJ Barlas
3 years, 3 months ago
Thanks, Znarf. And interesting points on the larger chassis. I assume that you're confident it was the structure and not a different, stiffer spring or damper setting and were using the same bars, grips, brakes, tires and wheels?
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Znarf
3 years, 3 months ago
Yeah, I rode the 38 for three months on the exact same bike, grips, tires, tire pressures, on a Raaw Madonna V2 Large and DT EX1501 wheels, 170mm Fox 38 Factory. Comfortable Syntace Vector Carbon Superlight 20mm risers with build in flex, ESI Extra Chunky soft grips.
Only thing I changed was the fork itself. For some perspective (we are nerding out here and I enjoy that :) I weigh around 167lbs. I can ride double black trails safely but I am not a super fast rider nor super aggressive, I will ride some stunts but skip the freeride type huge stuff. I regularly ride (when there is no pandemic) the European EWS tracks during holidays, because those are the good trails over here.
I agree with IslandLife that the 38 works a lot better than either a 36 or a Lyrik suspension wise. You can really feel how smooth it glides up and down with no stiction, also with the air volume in the lowers not influencing progression as much, using full travel with proper sag and pressure is MUCH better. The lubrication channels really work. Also more lower oil helps a lot. Also in really rough bermed, high speed corners and while charging the fork is very precise compared to my 36s. So the 38 moves up and down freely in those situations.
I ended up with roughly the FOX recommended settings minus one Token @170mm. Setup was easier compared to my 2020 Grip2.
I would think that for stronger or heavier riders the benefits will be huge. It is a great product with lots of really good innovation and a step forward.
The fore aft and side flex or the absence of it make it feel very direct. Too direct for my bones and joints. I rode the fork a lot on chunky „natural“ european trails, meaning hundreds of years of erosion, loads of roots, rocks, debris. On more groomed, flowy, jumpy, high speed trails the 38 was incredibly smooth and supple. Not on the more awkward slower speed stuff.
All that said, for how I ride, I often get to a point where I am a bit tired or not attacking 100% because my body feels the past 25 years riding and building trails and I want to continue riding for another 25. I tend to try and ride a bit lighter.
I would love to try the 2021 Fox 36, I bet the new chassis would be a great compromise. Maybe I will. My 2021 Lyrik Ultimate was half the price though and feels fantastic with the easiest setup. There seems to be a bit of bushing play, but it is very smooth and active. And I went through five 36 CSUs in three seasons and friends report that it seems to be an issue still even on 38s.
I‘ve personally witnessed two creaky ZEBs though. All on Madonna V2s :)
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AJ Barlas
3 years, 3 months ago
Thanks Znarf. It’s great to hear your thoughts and that the fork was the only thing that changed. It makes sense that the bigger chassis would have potential to do this for some riders. I remember the 40 had the same issues when it was first released and I hear of the odd rider still having the same issues more recently, though it seems to be less of a problem.
So is the plan to sell the 38 and get back to the 36 then?
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Znarf
3 years, 3 months ago
Actually I have already sold the 38 and went back to the 36 and then got a 2021 Lyrik Ultimate as a spare, too for when the 36 will go in for warranty once the CSU goes again.
The Lyrik is pretty awesome, it is incredibly simple to setup and very plush. Lets see how it will hold up :)
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IslandLife
3 years, 3 months ago
Huh, interesting... I've had almost the exact opposite experience from the 38. I've found the switch from the 2021 Fox36 to the 2021 Fox38 has resulted in less vibration and feedback at my hands. It sort of feels like the fork is bouncing around less and getting pushed around less... it tends to just do it's job vs fight impacts that aren't perfectly aligned with the fork. The fork does less of thumping and twanging... which isn't something I noticed much until using the 38... the thing just decreases the "drama" for me and has been letting me ride faster for a similar level of feedback and work. The fork is just so supple, it feels more comfortable to me. For me, I've been describing the differences as similar to the differences you feel when you hop on a DH bike, (more pronounced obviously) which obviously feels far more comfortable and less dramatic at the same speeds as my enduro which allows me to pick up the pace considerably. Or when you go down to a more light trail bike with something like a 34 on it and you start feeling every little impact and you feel much more vibration and buzz at the hands.
I have heard, with the differences in volumes, air springs and pressures from the 36 and Lyrik to the 38 and ZEB, it's taking people some time and tweaking to get them set up properly... some people are ending up quite far from the recommended settings. Though I didn't seem to have much trouble and am not far off Fox's recommended settings.
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Lu Kz
3 years, 3 months ago
This is exactly why I ended up keeping the Boxxer over the factory 40 I tried to upgrade to!
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AndrewR
3 years, 3 months ago
I have been on a Zeb Ultimate for about 200 km now and I whilst notice it being stiffer (especially torsionally) it is way more plush on the little janky stuff and medium stuff (think Entrails into bony Elbows) which translates to less trail feed back over the Lyrik Ultimate (which is amazingly plush and felt better than my Fox 36 Grip 2) which I was running and also run on my other bike.
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Martin
3 years, 3 months ago
That was a great interview, detailed and awesome pictures! Thanks David and AJ.
I love reading (and seeing) other people's setups, plus it makes me feel good to see that there are other non-racer riders as finicky as me on details : )
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AJ Barlas
3 years, 3 months ago
Thanks, Martin. Look for more throughout 2021.
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Trent Blucher
3 years, 3 months ago
Bike checks on riders that have to pay for their stuff and run it for a long time are waaaaay more informative than "pro" bike checks.
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ChocolateThunder
3 years, 3 months ago
I can’t upvote this enough. I’m so jaded by industry bias and everyone being “sponsored” in some way these days. A lot of people put a lot of thought into their setups, and can ride whatever they want, without any industry bias. Those are the best opinions.
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AJ Barlas
3 years, 3 months ago
Thanks heaps guys. This gets us even more psyched to share more real-world builds over the course of the year with you all.
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Ripmoslow
3 years, 3 months ago
I Really enjoyed this article. I love reading about people rides and the reasoning behind their spec. Nice change from reading about the latest and greatest.
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Jason West
3 years, 3 months ago
I must not care enough about my bike to do such details. Sweet bike though 🙂
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ohio
3 years, 3 months ago
Another guy with bad wrists (left scaphoid that just never came back quite right), here. Things that made a difference for me, in descending order (on a 2020 Enduro):
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AJ Barlas
3 years, 3 months ago
The Mezzer certainly comes up a bit for providing excellent ride qualities. Glad to hear that you're getting along with it.
Steve at Vorsprung once said that one of the biggest things to improve wrist and hand fatigue is the brakes. More power and easier access allow the hands, and body to relax more when on-trail. But by golly, you won't catch me trying to white knuckle the bar on much more than a fire road! How are you finding that in technical terrain, Marc?
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ohio
3 years, 3 months ago
So far loving the whole setup in what tech I've been able to access, which admittedly has not been *that* sustained. I haven't had a chance to hit the section of Downieville that is my clearest reference for hand fatigue in sustained rough (because I've always pumped out and had to stop unless on a DH bike), but based on Bay Area, Shasta and Ashland OR trails I'm very very happy and expect big improvements for park/Whistler or Downieville trips.
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4Runner1
3 years, 3 months ago
Having camped in the Shasta area, I can only imagine how good the riding is.
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Mike Wallace
3 years, 3 months ago
“Composure” is a great word for a good rear shock set up. Nice article.
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Timer
3 years, 3 months ago
Very nice, love all the attention paid to the little details (by rider and writer).
It sounds like a Bikeyoke Revive would make a great gift for his next birthday.
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4Runner1
3 years, 3 months ago
Great read. I appreciate that David’s bike is well used!
Another old guy here and I agree that the OneUp bar is amazing. I have back and neck issues and this bar greatly reduces fatigue and pain, for me. I’ve built my current bike to be comfortable, quiet and serviceable. Really can relate to a lot of things David is saying.
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jaydubmah
3 years, 3 months ago
Agreed on the One-Up! Was running a Chromag Fubar OSX on a Rootdown and was getting beat to a pulp. Switched out to the One-up with One-up grips and it was a significant difference for wrists and forearms.
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DMVancouver
3 years, 3 months ago
Was your OSX a 31.8 or a 35?
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Falltricky
3 years, 3 months ago
Sick to see such a low-key dialed Yeti without some of the usual hot-rod bling. Curious what maintenance is routinely done with the bearings? For my SB150 I've found that taking them out and rotating/regreasing once a season is plenty (albeit living in the dry Colorado climate).
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HTTom
3 years, 3 months ago
Nice article and bike!
Lots of comments on possible remedies for wrist pain but none on Meniere's Disease. I suffered the debilitating symptoms of that disease years ago and still do occasionally after falling off a low salt diet. The doctor that diagnosed me advised that limiting salt could be helpful. I listened to him and tried it and found it to be true.
I also have arthritis in my wrists and a hand condition. Have found a plush fork, plus tires help and a 25 degree high rise bar help. I am 70 and don't do any shredding, which also helps, haha. Have recently installed Rev Grips but too soon to tell if they will help as bad weather has curtailed my riding.
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AJ Barlas
3 years, 3 months ago
Hi HTTom. Interesting to hear about your doctor's recommendations with Meniere's Disease and glad to hear that it's been working for you. I imagine there hasn't been much in the comments about it because many haven't heard of it?
70 and still ripping? Amazing. I'll be a happy camper if I'm able to continue into my 70's. Thanks for the inspiration!
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Speeder1
3 years, 3 months ago
This might help if its the same bearing that keeps getting crunchy.
https://mtbengineer.blogspot.com/2019/11/the-yeti-sb150-linkage-has-design-flaw.html?m=1
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Sanesh Iyer
3 years, 3 months ago
I loved that article. Would love to see more of this sort of stuff. The qualitative difference between a properly toleranced and improperly toleranced bike is insane. Come to think of it, bikes should really ship with shim kits. I wouldn't definitively say the Yeti has a "design flaw", a "realistic tolerance for a consumer product" may be more apt.
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jesreson
3 years, 3 months ago
Just a heads up, David - Your chain is on backwards. The XTR logos needs to be facing outwards on the new 12s Hyperglide+ stuff.
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Deniz Merdano
3 years, 3 months ago
That's not an XTR chain.
It is a XO1 or XX1...
Which maybe because he wants his chain lasting more than a 1000k or that's what was available...
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IslandLife
3 years, 3 months ago
Does that work well?? Obviously it works... but I had always heard/thought that there was a fair bit of technology/engineering in the chains that make these 12 speed systems work well and that it wasn't a good idea to use opposite brands chains with another brands cassette?
Obviously lots of people are running Sramano hybrid set-ups, but again, always though you had to at least match the chain and cassette brand?
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Deniz Merdano
3 years, 3 months ago
The XTR chain is an absolutely fantastic piece of engineering.
It works really well.
The Shimano cassette cluster accepts SRAM chains without much fuss..
I do find the coating on the x01 chains to be harder wearing and last longer in the Pacific North slop.
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DMVancouver
3 years, 3 months ago
The lifespan on XX1 Eagle and X01 Eagle chains is truly impressive. But keep in mind the roller dimensions are larger than other chains, so it won’t show wear properly with most chain checkers.
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JVP
3 years, 3 months ago
Ugh, how is the first time I've heard about this? I like running the expensive X01 cassettes, chains, and cheaper everything else, so I want to keep that cassette fresh by not running my chains past .5-ish.
Got a link or know any more info? I use a Park CC-2.
JVP
3 years, 3 months ago
OK, replying to my own comment... like a crazy person.
Turns out most older chain checkers don't measure SRAM 12-spd accurately due to what DMRVan said. The Park CC-2 I've been using for ages is crap, they're inconsistent even on non-SRAM chains and I've probably been flushing $$ replacing too often.
The only two that work reliably on SRAM are Pedro's Chain Checker Plus (I just ordered one), and Park CC-4. They're both simple and affordable, so that's good.
Deniz Merdano
3 years, 3 months ago
JVP
I use a Unior Tools chain tool that seems to work consistently on the Sram and Shimano chains.
AndrewR
3 years, 3 months ago
@JVP Pedros Chain Checker II is the recommended chain checking tool for Eagle.
XX1 for longest lasting and slowest wearing (due to number of coatings), XO1 is almost as hard wearing and a little 'faster' ie absorbs less energy than the XX1 chain.
The best "bang for your buck" SRAM Eagle drive train would be: XO1 shifter, NX steel chain ring, GX derailleur, XO1 cassette and XX1 chain. It would shift beautifully and the components would last really well.
jesreson
3 years, 3 months ago
I'm not going to argue with you about the SRAM chain lasting longer than Shimano. However, I'm fairly positive that is a Shimano Chain. SRAM X01 and XX1 chains have SRAM logos on both sides of the chain. The chain pictured has no logos on it, which indicates that it must be a Shimano chain, since they intentionally only print logos on one side.
A sram quicklink is required to run a Shimano chain on Blackspire chainrings, which may be why you think this is a SRAM chain.
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mrbrett
3 years, 3 months ago
Damn, that ElevenSix has me all hot and bothered. Do you think there's anywhere I could bolt one of those sweet babies on a hardtail?
And,
"Fun fact, I've never slashed an old tire, it always seems to happen to me with brand new tires."
I've noticed the same and unfortunate thing. Theoretically, I have reasoned this to be that older tires are broken in and bulge out of the way of slashy rocks. Can anyone comment on this phenomenon? It's a real moment of shame when the new tire comes back off and the old one that was just replaced takes up its former place of glory.
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AJ Barlas
3 years, 3 months ago
"Do you think there's anywhere I could bolt one of those sweet babies on a hardtail?"
Hahaha. They are beautiful, aren't they?
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jason
3 years, 3 months ago
Great article. I have an 11/6 shock off my old bike that I really should send in to Push for re-tooling so that I can run it on my new bike. This is good motivation to do that. And being old as well I agree with the flatter brake alignment.
And two thumbs up on the Dh casing Maxxis tires. I run the dhf/dhr combo in summer, switching to the Assegai up front for winter. And always maxxgrip year round for both tires. Even if the rear wears out in two months. Better than sliding with maxxterra tires. I don’t know why I sometimes change tire brands as I always come back...
Great article.
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AJ Barlas
3 years, 3 months ago
Thanks, Jason. What bike will be the 11/6 be going to and what from?
Two months with a Maxxgrip DHR! Is that in the winter months?
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jason
3 years, 3 months ago
Hey Aj,
11/6 came off a 2018 Transition Patrol. It would go on a 2020 Transition Scout running 150/160mm (62.5mm stroke w trunnion). but unfortunately I just contacted Push and would need an all new shock. crap.... so I have an extra 11/6 shock if anyone has a 2018 Patrol.
Yes, about 2-3 months on the Shore (even less if i spend time in Squamish) in winter slop and the rear tire is worn down enough to warrant a new one (I am picky). And Jerry is right that an 80% Maxxterra is probably better than a 50% Maxxgrip. Hence the need to replace early, as that first 40% of the maxxgrip is better than maxxterra by a long shot.
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AJ Barlas
3 years, 3 months ago
Bummer about the 11/6. David mentioned when we were working on this article that he can't update his to the latest version from Push either. Possibly the same issue as you?
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jason
3 years, 3 months ago
Yes, it sounds like the same issue. different tune and internals, just won't work.
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fartymarty
3 years, 3 months ago
Jason - have you tried inserts with MT? After Cams recent article on inserts this maybe the way forward.
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Jerry Willows
3 years, 3 months ago
I find that a 80% wear MaxxTerra grips better than a 50 or 60% wear MaxxGrip. It's just a shame that Maxxis doesn't have a good selection on MaxxTerra in DH or DD casings. The new Specialized tires look promising and are cheaper than Maxxis.
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DMVancouver
3 years, 3 months ago
There’s a 29x2.4 DHR II Maxx Terra DD in the wild now! Grabbed one off the rack at Corsa a couple weeks ago.
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IslandLife
3 years, 3 months ago
Love the attention to detail and "anal-ness" of the bike/set-up/part selection. But those dirty ridewrap edges and chain are making my right eye twitch! Hard to look at some of those close-ups.. haha. My bike is no garage queen and I've been know to not clean it for a couple of rides every now and then. But if I was pushing her out on the catwalk you better believe I'd be breaking out the toothbrush, microfiber towels and Meguiars!
Although, as a counter to my own comment... does bike and it's state, does give the impression of a well used and loved machine...
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andyf
3 years, 3 months ago
Nice bike. I enjoyed reading the reasoning behind the component choices.
165mm RF Next R crank arms? I thought they only came in 170 and 175?
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Geof Harries
3 years, 3 months ago
David - How do you find running the XT 12-speed drivetrain (presuming a Shimano chain) with the Blackspire Snaggletooth chainring? Any issues or weird noises?
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